“ To Travel is to Live.” (Hans Christian Andersen)
Nyhavn: a picturesque neighbourhood in Copenhagen that was home to Hans Christian Andersen
In February 2017, I travelled to Copenhagen for a city-break trip. I had never been to the Danish capital and was curious to discover a purportedly elegant city, which had been home to a few great writers, notably Hans Christian Andersen, whose short-stories, and often tragic fairy tales, strongly influenced my childhood, and Karen Blixen, the adventurous and independent author of the well-known “Out of Africa” (an absolute must-read for anyone interested in the “expat experience” and the encounter between radically different cultures).
Beyond the literary appeal to the city, it has also acquired a certain gastronomic fame over the past few years, being home to fifteen Michelin-starred restaurants, including one that has been recognized as the “best restaurant in the world” on five occasions, as well as a Nordic capital of street food, of which the smørrebrød (the colourful and nutritious open-faced sandwich) is emblematic.
In mid-Winter, when I travelled, one can also become immersed in the charming “hygge” atmosphere at cafés, where a lit candle is set on each table (even during daytime) and one can indulge in a glass of mulled wine (or other warm beverage, according to one’s preferences). The concept of “Hygge”[i] became quite fashionable a few years ago, in the world of positive psychology and personal development, in the zeitgeist of concepts best explained by one word in a foreign, and preferably, “exotic” language[ii]. It is in this context that the Danish concept of “Hygge”, originally derived from Norwegian, meaning “well-being” and an “art de vivre” fostering happiness, in a very broad sense, was presented to the world. From what I have gathered, “hygge” implies being in the present moment (much like Buddhist-derived mindfulness) and enjoying simple things alone or in good company, and during any time of the year, but the concept has been partially denatured with emphasis put on long, harsh Danish winters (although there are places in the world where winters are much harsher and longer, believe me…) and ensuing unending nights. And as such, “hygge” has often been simplified and equated with cocooning, a concept familiar to anyone having lived in Northern Europe or septentrional North America for at least one winter season. Getting back to the literary appeal of Copenhagen, one may wonder whether it was Danish Winters that led to Andersen’s and Blixen’s inclination toward much warmer Mediterranean and African climates…
Hygge at a Danish café
A statue of Hans Christian Andersen in Copenhagen
Hans Christian Andersen
As a child I indulged in Hans Christian Andersen’s appealing, yet often tragic, fairy tales. Fairy tales, like myths, are great sources of wisdom, and can always be interpreted on many different levels. It is no wonder that many a psychologist/ psychoanalyst[iii] has taken interest in these writings, not only created for children, as confirmed by the writer’s own words: “my fairy-tales were just as much for adults as for children, who only understood the ornamental trappings, but only as mature adults can they see and perceive the contents.”Many of his tales were based on his own difficult childhood experiences of poverty (“The Little Matchgirl”), rejection and unworthiness (“The Little Mermaid” and “The Ugly Duckling”, the latter of which truly reflects Andersen’s own destiny moving from the ostracized duckling from a provincial Danish town to the successful, popular, cosmopolitan swan, who was even invited into royal circles, that he became with recognition as a distinguished writer). Other tales convey diverse messages about human nature and are no less interesting from a psychological and sociological standpoint. The absurd tale of the “Emperor’s New Clothes”, epitomizes human pride and vanity resulting in sheer stupidity by those who refuse to acknowledge reality, no matter how obvious it is. This tale is still very relevant to today’s society, and Andersen’s description of human nature is timeless. You may even find some pleasure (re)visiting some of these works by the eighth most translated[iv] author of all time.
"The Little Mermaid"
Hans Christian Andersen Museum
Copenhagen has a museum built in Andersen’s honour, where young and old(er) alike can “experience” some of the most famous tales from his anthology, as well as become better acquainted with the writer[v]and traveller, who spent ten years of his life travelling abroad. I discovered that Andersen had been a great traveller upon entering the museum and coming across his well-cited “To Travel is to Live” motto that foreshadows part of the museum journey and reflects a vital part of Andersen’s existence. Given that travel is also a personal passion, I found it compelling to learn more about his trips and the role that travelling played in his life. Maps of his journeys across Northern and Central Europe, as well as the Mediterranean (Spain, Italy and Morocco, notably) are displayed, and one learns that he also wrote travel journals, published for his readers, to either inspire them to follow in his footsteps or to just share the joys and wonders of his adventures with those not as fortunate to travel as extensively as he did, if at all. Andersen’s initiation trip beyond Danish borders took him to Germany in 1831, and it seems to have had such an impact on him that after his return to Denmark he wrote the following to a friend: “I am convinced that unless I am torn away from my momentary surroundings, I will amount to nothing; I shall perish if I remain here! » (Is this not a familiar feeling for many a passionate traveller upon returning to a routine life at home?) In 1833 he obtained a stipend from the King of Denmark allowing to him embark on his first great voyage across Europe, and from then on travelling became not only a part of his lifestyle, but also crucial to his psychic survival, as for many years recognition of his literary talents thrived abroad but stagnated at home. (It is interesting to note that this type of motivation also drives many expats seeking a new beginning, opportunities and even a reinvention of the self or a new identity.) Andersen, as all passionate travellers, was curious, open-minded and thrived on the exotic. One of his favourite destinations, understandably, was Andalucia, still a very popular tourist destination year-round, and which has no doubt even surpassed its 19thcentury popularity these days. His description of Malaga could even be recycled as a slogan for tourism (if ever it were necessary to promote the city): "In no other Spanish city I have come to feel as happy and as comfortable as in Malaga. A lifestyle, nature, open sea, everything for me is vital and indispensable that I find here; and something even more important : kind people"[vi]. And Malaga has reciprocated his affection by honouring the author in 2005 for the bicentennial of his birth, with a statue on Plaza de la Marina, in the downtown area, facing the port, and thereby immortalizing Andersen’s month-long sojourn in the city in 1862.
A record of H.C. Andersen's journeys
Travel seems to have been a refuge for Andersen, in addition to being a passion: a refuge from harsh Danish Winters, from a lonely life at home (he had many friends abroad whom he would visit, including a certain Charles Dickens), from a lack of literary recognition, which he obtained in many European nations, notably in Germany, until his fellow countrymen acknowledged his talent later on in life. And although Andersen suffered from numerous phobias (of dogs; of contracting trichinosis, thus avoiding eating pork; of being buried alive and of being caught in a fire, causing him to include a long rope in his luggage), these did not constrict him, as anxiety disorders often do, nor did they keep him from pursuing his passion. Let him be an example to us all in the pursuit of our passions, particularly travelling…
A statue of H.C. Andersen in Malaga, Spain
[i] « The Little Book of Hygge: The Danish Way to Live Well”, Meik Wiking, Penguin Life, 2016.
[ii] Today, in our globalized world, we make reference to Hygge, Ikigai and Ho’ ponopono as in past decades one would refer to “la dolce vita” or “art de vivre”, when Italian and French were still quite exotic to English speakers.
[iii] Many of S. Freud’s theories on the human psyche are based on Greek myths: the Oedipus Complex and Narcissism are the best known. Bruno Bettelheim, an Austrian psychoanalyst, is best known for his book “The Uses of Enchantment” (1976), where he examined the importance of fairy tales in a child’s emotional development.
[iv] According to the Unesco his works have been translated into over 125 languages.
[v] Much more than an author of fairy tales, Andersen was also a playwright, novelist and, of course, author of many travelogues.
[vi] In « In Spain and a Visit to Portugal” (1870)